Starting out: Exploring Eugene

For many years, I've wanted to do a self-supported bicycle tour somewhere.  Four  years ago, to this end, I bought a bike designed for such an adventure:  www.bikefriday.com   


I wasn't sure when I'd actually get to take my first tour, but this year, the planets finally lined up for me.  Here is how it all unfolded.  The photos may be all you have time to read.  That's okay.  The words are the echo of good times I will remember with a smile!  


Months beforehand, I chose to plan a tour in Oregon, where there isn't as much traffic and where the weather is not as hot during the summer, typically.  Through e-mails back and forth with Jim, the content provider for the great website, Ride Oregon, he patiently developed a feasible route that would not be too overwhelming for a flatlander's first bike tour.   Another Sacramento cyclist, Peter, also gave me ideas and even offered to lend me equipment if needed.  Though I ended up not needing to do that, I appreciated the support and encouragement!


In March, I placed an ad on the Bike Friday YAK list, seeking a touring companion.  I found a bicycling 'buddy,' Karen, through that process.  On June 19, She drove in to Sacramento from Brisbee, AZ.  


Karen and I gabbed all evening, getting to know each other.  She is a vivacious, upbeat, and take-charge-make-it-happen-no-obstacles-will-get-in-the-way person with a big heart and interesting life stories and perspectives to share!  Very capable and resourceful, too, with training as an cycling tour guide and one cross-country trip also under her belt!   Just what I needed, being a newbie to bicycle touring!  The Universe provides!  Finally, the tour was about to begin!


Sunday, 6/20/10:  Driving up I-5 from Sacramento,  the spectacular landscapes Oregon always offers its visitors were a great way to get in the mood for days of pedaling!  Such dramatic landscapes and such lush greenery everywhere!  A wonderful break from Sacramento's heat!


In Eugene, OR,  our starting point, Karen and I found safe haven on short notice with what I call a 'pedal angel,' a woman named Catherine.  Karen is a member of a worldwide hospitality network of people who offer to house bicycle travelers passing through their towns.  We used our cell phone app to put out a request, and Catherine came to the rescue!  She also offered to let me park my car in her driveway until our return!   Such a network makes the cost of touring economically mercifully kind to one's travel budget!


Monday, June 21:  Up bright and early, we loaded our gear onto our trusty steeds -- Bike Fridays -- in Catherine's shady driveway.  Karen's bike is bright yellow, and mine is purple.  As I often say about Bike Fridays, they may look cute, but they are MIGHTY!  Karen opted to pull a trailer with her huge neon orange bag of necessities and 2 yellow panniers.  I mounted up my bike racks with four Ortlieb panniers and two stuff sacks.  I was worried!  How could this little bike possible carry me and all this gear?  Wouldn't my bike break?  Heck no!  It's a Bike Friday, built for touring!


Off we pedaled, my excitement high as we set out through Eugene's meandering bike paths and streets to find breakfast at a local cafe.  After a hearty breakfast, we headed on to BIKE FRIDAY's headquarters, where Bike Fridays are all made!   Both of us definitely wanted to pay a visit to this innovative and friendly company.  Eugene has an impressive system of bike routes, many of which are dedicated bike paths.  These weave through the urban setting, making bicycling there a carefree pleasure.  My favorite paths paralleled lovely waterways:

We got a bit lost trying to find Bike Friday across town, but what a place to get lost!   After a few phone calls and some retracing of our pedaling, finally we arrived at this awesome company!  Peter, Chris, and other staffers were full of smiles and welcomes.   They patiently took some time to chat with us about new models in Bike Fridays lineup,  to supply us with local maps of the countryside, and generally share our enthusiasm for touring.  Bike Friday ROCKS!


Here we are, in front of Bike Friday:  

At Bike Friday, Karen and I met up with a very interesting Australian, Dorothy.  She was picking up a brand new tomato-red Bike Friday, intending to travel in the States for this upcoming year!  She had flown in with her touring gear, so she was ready to go!  We explained our intended route to her, in case she wanted to join us down the road.


After waving goodbye to the friendly Bike Friday staffers, we rolled out towards our first night's destination, Harrisburg.  We pedaled about 20 miles through Oregon's peaceful farmlands.  The weather was blissfully nice -- no rain, no heat, just cool, crystal clear skies and bucolic vistas.  The only inconvenience was a persistent 10-14 mph headwind that definitely slowed my progress, especially acclimating to a fully loaded bike.  I did my best to pedal forward at a decent rate of speed, but Karen, a much more experienced touring cyclist, was usually a bright spot moving further and further away, it seemed.  She patiently pulled over from time to time until I could catch up.  I realized that she was going to be the hare, and I was going to be the tortoise, in pacing!   


Karen guesstimated my pace at about 5-6 miles an hour, whereas hers was more like 7-9 miles an hour.  I tried not to feel like I had to keep up faster than I felt able, and I know she tried to patiently adjust her pace downward.  I found myself feeling a bit inept, though.  I could only do the best I could, so that's what I did.  I kept pedaling!  I took frequent 5-minute rests to give my 'bum,' as Dorothy calls it, a rest from my saddle.


The road we traveled was a main artery between small farm towns, but the shoulders for cyclists were quite adequate, and the politeness of Oregon drivers sporadically passing us all day was exemplary!  The vast majority of them made it a point to pass us with a wide berth.  I couldn't imagine this being consistently the case if I had been on a California road.  No wonder Oregon is a beloved cycling destination!


Here is one photo of the beautiful scenery we passed by:

The Amish Bakery was closed on the day we pedaled by.  Too bad!  Mostly, I saw fields of wheat or picturesque barns or river vistas, hawks soaring and dipping, some turkey vultures contemplating a feast of a few roadkills, and occasionally, a passing cyclist.  Lots of beautiful bird songs accompanied me along my route.


Karen and I met up in Harrisburg around 3 pm, having cycled 40 miles this first day.  For me, this was a milestone, since I really didn't know whether I'd be able to do 20 miles with a fully loaded bike -- and headwinds for half of the ride, to boot.  I was tired but not done in -- yet! 


Next, we contemplated where to camp.   I was surprised that there were few campgrounds, if any, listed on the map.  Here we were in the middle of such a splendid natural setting of forests and meadows and rivers and creeks...where were the campgrounds?  

Karen mentioned the the possibility of having to opt for "stealth" camping, as bicyclists call it -- i.e., inventing a stop somewhere to discretely set up camp when official campgrounds can't be found.  She assured me there are always options...perhaps we could ask a small town's police department for ideas, or approach a private property owner, or  a school yard or church, possibly, for a camp spot.   Hmmm.  I told myself to relax and trust in the abundance of the Universe!  Welcome to bike touring's challenges!  Into it's benevolence we rode!

Eventually, we met two guys next to a charming gazebo in the river park and they suggested taking a short trail down to the river banks to stay where 'hobos' sometimes camp!  NOT!  


The younger of the guys was a teen-ager, and he caught up with us as we headed to other points in the town to research where to stay.  He said, "I didn't think you'd want to stay where the hobos stay!  I know a better place.  There's a new RV resort right down the road and I think you'd be able to camp there!"  I bought him an ice cream cone at a place that looked like it hadn't changed in 50 years, and he was a happy kid!


Off we headed, down the road to this resort, and darned if it wasn't a lovely place!  Jacuzzi's, hot showers, a huge swimming pool, and a treeless parking lot for RV's. Sherri, the nice woman at the desk, told us we were welcome to camp on a beautiful grassy spot under a huge oak tree right next to the tranquil Willamette River!!!  We couldn't ask for a prettier spot!  $20 for the night, split between us made for great digs!


We each trudged off to a nice hot shower after our pedaling, and settled down in our Thermarest 'recliners' to read our books.  Both of us were reading absolutely fascinating tales of biking around the world in two of several books written by a truly phenomenal, scholarly, and intrepid British cyclist, Anne Mustoe. Perfect reading material to keep my pedaling challenges in perspective!  


A good night's sleep, serenaded by crickets and frogs under a full moon reflecting into a river was a just reward for this first day's travels! 


Tuesday, 6/22/10:  Next morning, we rose, packed up our tents, and off we pedaled to breakfast in town!  Then onto Corvallis we headed!  This time, we decided that due to our different pacing capabilities, Karen should forge ahead and I should meander ahead, meeting up in Corvallis that afternoon.  I enjoyed pedaling a lot more, once this was agreed upon, because I didn't feel I was holding Karen up.  I'm sure she enjoyed not having to stop and wait for me to catch up.  


There is a lot to be said for solo pedaling, in this situation, and it is nice to meet up with a friendly companion at day's end.  I found the 22 miles needed to reach Corvallis again a bit windy, and I took my time out of necessity.  The previous day's 40 miles as my 'day 1' touring experience had depleted my energy somewhat.  At one point, I saw a gardner working near a beautiful stand of birches.  I asked if I could pull over and take a 20-minute cat nap!  No problem!  She motioned me through gates to a quiet spot under the trees -- right in front of a mansion that looks like it was built for the likes of Bill Gates.  Formal English gardens all around it!    What a great place to revive myself!  


Back on the bike, two fig bars later, off I went, further down the road.  It was wonderful to finally descend down Hwy 34 and across the Willamette River Bridge into downtown Corvallis.  What a sweet and friendly town!  I could imagine living there quite easily!


I pedaled over to New Morning Bakery, a place with a fabulous cornucopia of selections to feast on, meeting up with Karen there.  Dorothy had called us from a borrowed cell phone and was pedaling not far behind me to meet up with us.  It was a lovely spot to rest and get refreshed for a couple hours of relaxation.  


Again, we pondered where to camp for the night -- no campsites nearby that we could identify.  Our next adventure was about to begin -- meeting Yaney, Vernon and Michael, a most fascinating trio of 'pedal angels' if ever there was one!  I had been communicating with Yaney and Vernon via e-mail about our tour, and since they too are planning a tour -- across the U.S. -- they generously offered fellow cyclists lodging for a night in Corvallis at their Pi in the Sky Ranch, "just a few miles from town."


Yaney kindly drove into town to meet us, and then offered to drive our panniers up the hill we would be biking up later  to get to their house.  After doing that, she pedaled back into town and led us up the hill on our bikes.  Karen was the only one with gear to pull along in her trailer.  Dorothy and I pedaled sans panniers, which was fine with me, since flatlanders aren't used to hills!  Off we went, up a hill, and up a hill, and up a hill, and up a hill...  Higher and higher, gradually ascending past large, modern McMansions, still higher, still higher, finally coming to a dirt trail that then turned back into paved road, then more climbing.  


To my amazement, Karen pedaled up and up like a Trojan, undaunted, pulling her trailer full of gear without flagging!  Yaney and Dorothy were still on their bikes too.  I ran out of gears, and ended up walking some of the last portion of this adventurous climb.  That's okay.  Practice makes perfect.


Finally, we arrived at Pi in the Sky.  This was our friendly, fun and funky, memorable haven for the evening!  Upon entering this house tucked amongst trees high in the hills, I felt I had been transported back my youthful days in the 60's!  Yep, hippies still prosper, and happily so!  


A charmingly decaying VW bus in retirement was parked not far from the house, crying out for my camera's attention.  I shall use its image in my greeting card line, perhaps.  I was thinking of "Rest in peace" as an appropriate greeting.  Vernon bettered my idea by changing one letter:  "Rust in peace."  Perfect!

Michael cooked up spaghetti and prepared a green salad, accompanied by delicious old world-style bread.  We had brought a strawberry-rhubarb pie from New Morning Bakery to all enjoy at Pi in the Sky!  (Michael is a mathematician, so "Pi" comes from that reality.)


Hot tea and vigorous conversation and food and dessert -- another just reward for another day's pedaling!  In the morning, scrambled eggs and hot multi-grain cereal, fresh fruit and my homemade scones set us on our way after photos all around to capture good time spent with good people!

From left to right:  Myself, Australia's Dorothy, Michael, Karen, Vernon & Yaney smile for the camera!   (Yaney and Vernon and 6-term Member of Congress Cynthia McKinney are recruiting cyclists to bicycle across the U.S. as a peace effort, come this July/August/September!  I can't wait to hear about this group's adventures!  http://www.b4p.bbnow.org )  May the kind hospitality they extended us return to them ten-fold on their journey!


Wednesday, 6/23/10:  Okay, I needed a day of rest!  EASING into touring was something I really wanted to do. I've always been a day-dreamer and a meandering gypsy at heart, so having time to explore, read, take photographs, and just relax was my idea of what a bike touring vacation should be.  Besides, I had a good friend in Corvallis that I wanted to catch up with over lunch.  Karen and I decided it made the best sense for me to stay put for a day while she and Dorothy pedaled up to Independence, OR, 25 miles up the road.  She wanted to stretch her legs some more.


At some point, either the afternoon of the 23rd or the 24th, I agreed that I would pedal back down to River Bend Resort.  There, I would wait for Karen to pedal back south from her northerly travels.  (Dorothy was planning on cycling to Portland and points further north, so she and Karen would part ways in Independence.)


As everyone headed out from Pi in the Sky for their own day's itinerary, Michael kindly helped me out a bit to get started down the long descent back into town from their home.  He transported my panniers down the 18% grade, to a point where it was not so steep, as I followed down on my unloaded bike.


(I had not yet adjusted my weight distribution of gear on my bike to the best distribution, and my handlebar bag made my steering unwieldy.  I did not want to take such a steep hill downwards without more experience because I have NEVER been a coordinated person in such types of endeavors.  As a child, I remember sliding all the way down a steep fire break in the San Gabriel Mountain foothills above La Crescenta, CA, because I couldn't keep the balance the rest of my brothers and sisters were able to keep when walking down.  Here I was, still challenged!)


Under the shade of a tree, I repacked my panniers, first giving Michael a goodbye hug and thanks for his help.  I decided to put my handlebar bag on the back rack.  What an improvement!  Now, when I pedaled my bike, I almost could forget it was fully loaded.  Before, any turns would feel very much like a teetering experience.  Progress!


I pedaled the rest of the way down the hill (a few miles).  On my way downtown to meet up with my friend, Lorraine, for lunch, another pedal angel appeared quite unexpectedly!  


A gentlemanly cyclist named Skip was heading the opposite direction along the bike route.  He called out hellos and stopped his bike to ask me where I was touring.  He was absolutely the most friendly person you could hope to meet on a bike tour in an unfamiliar town.  I enthusiastically told him this was my first tour, and he explained that he and his wife, Kelly, were seasoned bicycle tourists. 


Over the years, Skip and his wife had biked 33,000 miles around the U.S.!!!!  He told me that the kindness of strangers was the best thing about bicycle touring and that he would never be able to repay the many kindnesses extended him in his travels, but that he and his wife were dedicated to extending kindness to touring cyclists as often as he could.   After more conversation, he told me that if I'd like lodging for the night with them, I was more than welcome.


I had contemplated pedaling back to River Bend Resort that afternoon, since it didn't get dark until 9 pm and it was 'only' 20 miles.  However, I decided on the spot that Skip and his wife, Kelly sounded too friendly and interesting for me to pass up getting to know better.  How exciting to get to talk to cyclists with so many miles behind them!  


This was the type of experience I had imagined would come my way if I trusted the Universe to open up my vistas.  I had learned from my past travels and experiences as an occasionally touring musician that synchronicity and serendipity are the most beautiful part of what stepping out of normal routines of life is all about.  Until I had gotten to travel as a musician, I had never been aware of the weavers of my life's tapestry that work quietly in the shadows.  Here they were, again hard at work, and I could see a new tapestry beginning to unfold.


I agreed to show up at Skip and Kelly's house around 7 pm.  It was not far from where we had stopped and met.  Off I pedaled to visit my dear friend, Lorraine, for lunch.  She is a wonderful writer and musician that I got to know in California.  She has happily resettled in Corvallis, so I was really glad to get to catch up with her over leisurely conversation.


More reading, later in the afternoon, and a visit to one of several excellent bike shops in Corvallis.  I needed some straps to secure my stuff sacks on my racks more securely.  That mission accomplished, and evening drawing near, I pedaled over to my safe haven for the night.  Kelly explained she was nursing a sore shoulder and in need of rest.  After a delightful half hour of visiting with her and Skip together -- also 'meeting' all of their many bikes and viewing some of their travel photographs -- Skip and Kelly decided that I needed to see a beautiful view from a mountaintop, Mary's Peak.


Kelly headed off to rest and recuperate, and Skip drove me out to Mary's Peak in his snazzy Jeep!  He told me more stories along the way.  We also talked about music and Kelley's accomplishments as a professional dancer.  The weather was so nice that he put the top down for part of the long winding drive up to the very tippy top of Mary's Peak!  What a spectacular mountain!  


So many beautiful views of nature along the 4,000-foot climb up to the top!  On the top of the mountain, we parked and walked up about 1/8th of a mile to the viewing area that allowed us magnificent vistas of the Pacific Ocean, on one side, and the Willamette Valley on the other!  The ocean was hidden under banks of clouds, but as you can see, the view was still something that I will always remember as incredible.


Here are SEVERAL photos I snapped quickly before the sun finally set:

Returning to the house, I had another good night's sleep in a kind place! I awoke to have eggs and fruit with Kelly and Skip.  He asked me to play a tune on his Hohner guitar, which needed a bit of tuning anyway, so I obliged.  I sang Deep Within Wisconsin Green and The Tumbleweed Waltz to their appreciative ears.  Kelly spontaneously stood up during the waltz tune.  In her spacious kitchen, as I sang the lyrics, she proceeded to dance through a beautiful set of  ballet steps done to the lilt of the waltz's rhythm.  I will always remember this unexpected interpretation of my song.  She's a beautiful dancer!


I rode into Corvallis with Skip as he showed me lovely trails.  We had coffee and pecan sticky buns -- at the New Morning Bakery.  Then I said goodbye, promising to send them my songs on CD, since they have the heart of good folks!


I headed out of Corvallis south, back towards River Bend Resort, looking forward to a meandering few hours of riding and then more time to read and relax by the river.  Along that day's ride, I stopped several times just to enjoy the rural scenery, and once, I pulled on to the tiny and forgotten "main street" of the once-happening little town of Peoria.  I asked a lady gardening in her front yard if I could fill up my water bottle.  Without hesitation, she said, "Oh, heavens, just come into the house!"  


I walked into a sweet living room furnished in antique oak furniture and hardwood floors, and she pulled out a pitcher of fresh, homemade lemonade to pour into my water bottle!  She said her name was Marilyn, and she was really a nice person.  We chatted a few moments, and then I was on my way again, fortified with  more kindness!


Once I arrived back at River Bend Resort, I set up my tent along the river and waiting for Karen to arrive a couple hours later.  We then headed to town for pizza and ice cream!


Here is the campsite I enjoyed so much, along with our tents:

Next morning, another hearty breakfast in Harrisburg, and then a few hours of steady pedaling back to Eugene.  More beautiful weather!  Here are a few miscellaneous photos I took on the trip at various points:


Crossing the Willamette River Bridge -- decked out in my sun protection, thus looking a bit like a sheik in a helmet:

Amelia, my Bike Friday, fully loaded:

Karen and her yellow Bike Friday and trailer:

Once we headed south towards California, we ended up at Jackson Wellsprings, another 60's-tinged camp/spa/music venue just ouside Ashland, OR, as a last-minute refuge.  It was funky and friendly and cheap.  Lots of Shakespearan-looking actor types walking around.  


Now that I'm home, I can't wait to dream up another bicycle touring adventure, even if it's just a short three-day tour on local roads.  It was a great way to see the world at a slower pace, spontaneously and economically, and best of all, to meet interesting people all along the way!


Karen is now safely back in Arizona.  I will always be thankful that I had an experienced tour guide to get me rolling my first few miles of bicycle touring!


Ride a bike.  You will have lots of fun if you relax into it!


Paula Joy